This blog will be slightly controversial as it is
unedited. If you’re young, innocent, or
my mother (I know you’re young and innocent too Ma), then be warned, but I
thought it was only fair to give you the unedited version of my thoughts from 9
days on the trail. This is a mix of my
thoughts, things to remember for future hikes, and advice for anyone else who
may do this hike. If you're interested here is the link for the walk NW Circuit on Stewart Island
Day 1: Oban to
Bungaree Hut (5.5 hours)-Watched sunrise, disappointing. Barely slept because I was so excited I was wondering if I’d meet others. Would I enjoy the alone time? Would I get sick of my own thoughts? Lots of people at Maori Beach and 2 boats at
Port Williams, wanting more remoteness, but this is part of a Great Walk. The beaches are incredible and have blue,
sunny sky! After Port Williams, no more
people until hut. Had 1st
muddy section. 9 hunters and 4 other
hikers at hut—too many! My rice was
plain and boring—I forgot about using powdered soup as seasoning! 2 infected cuts already… Still really excited
for the next ? days. Beautiful hut on
beach with seal playing. Quick swim, but no fish or paua. Harder than expected—need “tramping legs”
back. Beautiful stars/moon. Delicious scallops, cod, and venison from
hunters but still don’t like them—not remote!
Day 2: Bungaree Hut to Christmas Village (5 hours)- Sore in morning. Hike was hilly, but legs feel better! Tried finding paua at Murray Beach, but no luck. Found 1 at Christmas Village!!! High tide and strong wakes tho—lost the first one. Popped its organs, but cleaned it and tasted delicious! Walked all day alone and loved it. 2 hikers, no hunters at hut. One hiker told me I need to wash my socks—ha! Was gunna climb Mt Anglem in afternoon, but got paua instead. Great weather again. Hut book talks bout great fishing, deer, penguins, whales, and kiwi, but haven’t seen any yet. Starting to chafe, which sucks. Haven’t finished skittles yet—I have some control! Not excited for rice tomorrow—need paua. Got a big mussel today too. Meant to rain tomorrow, but loving it so far. May spend 10 days here—why not.
Day 3: Christmas
Village to Yankee River (5.5 hours)- Slept in a bit, decided to skip Anglem.
Saw a white tail this morning out window.
Weird German hiker left! On and off rain/blue sky. Was supposed to be 4 hours, not sure why I
took so damn long. Swam in morning, but
it was cold as balls and the swell was a b***h.
Free balled today and had no chafing.
Took limpets for protein. Lucky
Beach looked mean for paua, but wasn’t keen to swim. Everyone in the book sees kiwi, but I haven’t
even heard a damn one. Actually loving
walking alone—so much to think about, but nothing really to worry about. Hunters at hut, but a bit more rugged and
they gave me sauce for my boring rice. I
like the Swiss guy Antoine who will probably be at every hut with me. He played on the Swiss national hockey team
with David Aebischer and Mark Streit!
Shoulda swam at this hut for paua, but its real cold. My new book is s**t so far—I remember why I
took a 5 year break from reading.
Anyway, easy day tomorrow, then a few long ones. Miss everyone at home, but enjoying
this! Got delicious chicken and finally
did see a kiwi! Now I gotta photograph
one. One of today’s thoughts—why does a
toothbrush only last me 1 month? Great stars again! New socks tomorrow!! Tides
working against me now.
Day 4: Yankee
River to Long Harry (4.5 hours)- Hated the morning. Think it was more mental, but Smoky Beach was
bloody beautiful!! Swell is still making paua collecting s**t. After the beach, loved the walk. Cold as this morning, but turned out hut and
sunny! Just me and Antoine here with
amazing views. Even the hunters at
Yankee River said something smelled awful in hut (it was my socks…). My crackers went leathery, so lunch will be
gross now. Trying a big sea snail with
dinner. Swam every day so far. Will finish in 9 days. Infected cuts are healed and chafing stopped!
The Skittles are barely hanging in. The
snail was awful, but rice was loaded with tomato sauce and spice, so it was
bearable! Didn’t fall on ass today! Could stay at this hut longer, but may as
well keep going. Favourite hut! No kiwi, but 3 f****n possum, 2 chased me!
Boots holding up well and dry! Wish I could
get a pic of these stars.
Day 5: Long Harry
to East Ruggedy (4.5 hours)- Great hike! Saw kiwi on trail!! Over halfway
done. Mad for using cell phone last
night—is anywhere really remote?!? Couscous for dinner. Thank god not rice. Lookout was amazing! Not doing rest day
because I feel I have good momentum now.
Realised it’s good I’m a guy cuz I piss a lot on trail. Tomorrow is meant to be hardest day, but
bring it on! Tired of some of the same thoughts over and over…what to do for
work, where to travel next, blah, blah.
Kills tie, but all this s**t will work out eventually, just need to stop
working about it. Hopefully new thoughts
tomorrow. Swam again, but no paua. Maybe they’re picked out or I’m not going
deep enough. Skittles population is quickly dwindling. New clothes tomorrow!! So far weather has
been on point. Raining now, but f it
passes over night I’d be happy. Book is
better! Skinks everywhere.
Day 6: East
Ruggedy to Big Hellfire (6 hours)- 2 beautiful beaches today! Rained overnight, clear today. This track is more mentally tiring than
physically. Hut not on beach, no
swim. Ate Skittles on way and finished
em. A bit sore, a few cuts. Really hungry today, listened iPod, made me
miss CSU and all the friends and great memories. Cold as tonight, but clear starry skies. Contemplating what hikes to do…never enough
time. My feet/boots/socks reek. Muddier today. Sand at 200m---weird. Meant to be lots of kiwis tomorrow. Lost all track of days, love it.
Day 7: Big
Hellfire to Mason Bay (6 hours)- Cold ass southerly off Antarctica, but showers
this morning cleared to sun/cloud.
Island gets 275 days/year rain, doing pretty damn well now! Spent a lot
of time on my ass today, but good section of track. Hut will be nearly full—20 people!! I’ve only
seen 3 others since Yankee River! No swim again, but not happy about full
hut. People complaining about how hard
their 3 hour walk is and how muddy, but they’re clean…ugh! Cheese went green,
guess I shouldn’t have cut it beforehand, so lunches will be s**t now Crazy how fast 1 week went, legs feel good,
body feels good, mentally good. Loving
just being outside walking in the sun.
Some people even in by plane!! Lazy bastards. Really good kiwi sighting
and rainbow! Got a kiwi video. Do NOT like all these people. Antoine and I will
camp tomorrow to avoid em! Right knee sore..
Day 8: Mason Bay
to North Arm Campsite (8 hours)- Went further to avoid the obnoxious old
people. Didn’t sleep well due to
excruciating knee pain and them getting up at 6. Mentally and physically tired. Knee is okay with painkillers. Long day in mud and bush—every hill pissed me
off. Used to think hiking poles were for
old people..maybe I’m old… 1 year ago I was in Vegas. I miss that a lot. Jealous of everyone at CSU on spring
break. For the first time today, thought
about going home.
Day 9: North Arm
to Mason Bay (2.5 hours)- This was supposed to be 5 hours but it’s on the Great
Walk, so extra easy. My knee is huge, but it was great to get real food and beer!
I absolutely loved the experience, loved being away from
everything and losing track of time! My
knee is huge unfortunately and I have a few cuts on my feet, but otherwise I
loved this hike!
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