Monday, December 22, 2014

Life on the Beach

It's been a while, but I guess I'll fill you in on how my more settled life is.  I've been in Paihia now for a month, which is where I'm working and living.  I live in a cabin at a campground and I help manage the campground in exchange for free accommodation and then am working at the Jetski tour company when the weather's good.  At the beginning of the month we had great weather then about 10 days of crap and now is quite nice again! Besides work though, I have managed to have a bit of fun too.  There are 9 of us now between the hostel next to the campground and the campground that are all here for the summer, so we have some long term friends along with the people who are always coming and going.  
Sailing through the Bay
The Bay of Islands is known for sailing and I've met a friend who has a boat and have been out twice with him.  Friday nights they also have races at the yacht club and are often looking for crew to help on the boats, so I've gone to that twice as well and may actually join the yacht club, so I get access to the boats whenever I want.  I'm determined to be at least proficient at sailing by the end of the summer!
My Jon Dory (just before eating it)
As most of you know, we had orcas in the Bay a few weeks back and while I was walking home from work, I saw them just offshore.  I hopped in to the kayak shack, which my friend works at, and he let me hop on a kayak and I sat right in the middle of them!  Unfortunately, I don't have any pictures, but it was incredible to have them so close to your kayak and swimming right under you!  I sailed that night as well and we saw them again.  I also got a free trip on a boat called The Rock, which is an overnight, all-in-one experience kind of thing.  Despite not having amazing weather, we were able to do all of our activities still.  We left around 5pm and drive out to the Bay where we got to fish and I caught my first Jon Dory, which tasted delicious!  Then we night kayaked and the water was full of phosphorescence, which was really cool and we even went for a brief night swim!  I became friends with an Australian/Canadian couple and a Belgian guy, so we hung out for the night and had a delicious dinner.  The following morning, after breakfast, we snorkeled for sea urchins, which are edible and tasty, but have very little meat in them.  Finally, we went to one of the islands, which I had been to before, and got to walk up to a lookout across the Bay and all of the islands before heading back.  For the price I paid, it was an awesome trip!  There's still more I want to do though, such as diving, and camping on one of the islands!
Dolphins!
The owner of the hostel/campground is making a big Christmas breakfast for us, then I will be going over to one of the families I stayed with before for brunch at 11am.  I don't think I'll go hungry :) Life is good here, but I do wish I could be home to spend the holidays with all of you! Miss you all!

Saturday, November 29, 2014

A Month of Adventure

Wow, I have a lot to say, but will try to keep it (reasonably) short.  As you probably know, I worked Labour Weekend (the end of October) at the Jet Ski rental company in Paihia, but because November is slow for them, they told me to travel for the month.  I didn't bring my laptop, so here is everything that happened and I decided to not write anything down, so this is strictly the things that I remember most.
Fishing in sunset

I started the adventure by going to Great Barrier Island, a moderately remote island that is 5 hours by ferry from Auckland in the Hauraki Gulf.  I found a family to stay with and work for there and had planned on spending 9 days on the island--it turned in to 18 days.  The island itself is beautiful with a lot of native forest and big hills, but rimmed with white sand beaches and crystal blue water.  I say moderately remote because there are 800+ people living out there, but they have no central plumbing, water, electricity, etc as everyone has to get their own and there are no supermarkets out there.  Anyway, I loved it.  The beaches themselves were beautiful, but not being a beach person, I found plenty of other things to do.  My host family (the parents, a 9 year old daughter, and a 13 year old daughter in boarding school who I didn't meet) allowed me to borrow their fishing gear, so I spent a lot of time fishing, not catching, off the rocks all around different beaches.  They're on their 7th generation on the island now, so they know it really well (and own a lot of it)!There had been a German guy who I'd travelled with a bit before who was also out there, and I did go fishing, successfully, with him and his host on a row boat just a few hundred metres offshore!  We got snapper, trevally, and kowhai--nothing big, but enough
Harataonga Bay Coastal Track
for me to bring back and feed my host family the next night!  The host family was also great friends with the two police officers (a husband and wife) on the island and he took me out on his boat to dive for "crayfish," which we call rock lobster back home.  I'd never had them before and they used a snare to catch them, so after watching him catch the first, I was able to catch two by myself and feed the family once again.  My god, they were delicious.
 
There is also some great hiking out there and one day I went on 3 hour coastal walk, then did a 2-day hike that took me up a track with natural hot springs to a hut.  The next day I went over the highest point on the island and down through a canyon back out to the road. From the hut, there were amazing views to over Little Barrier Island and the coastline, with a beautiful sunset.  I got to the hut early, so walked the 45 minutes to the top of the mountain and got great views, but was back down in time for dinner and the sunset.
Sunset from the hut
The stars were amazing and I even saw one shooting star! In the morning, I walked up to the ridge where I could view east and watch the sunrise from the other side--not many places where you can watch the sun set and rise over the ocean from a ridge on a mountain!  It was then an easy walk back down and out to the road where I quickly hitched a ride back to "my" house.  I also spent my birthday on the island, which I got spoiled on.  The police officers, along with one other guy and his son, came over to celebrate.  They got me Corona and lime to drink, while we ate tuna and crayfish dip for appetizer followed by a wild pork roast for dinner and chocolate cake and strawberry cheesecake for dessert!  While on the island, I went on a field trip with the daughter's school to a wildlife sanctuary and also played a game of touch rugby!  When it was finally time to leave, I hitched a ride to the ferry, which I made with a whopping 3 minutes to spare, then had a pod of dolphins jumping around to wish me farewell.

My first crayfish
My next stop was New Plymouth and Egmont National Park.  The weather was meant to be mediocre at best, but you know the saying--there is no such thing as bad weather, just improper clothing.  Luckily, the lady working at the hostel had said there was another guy, Uli, from Germany (notice a theme) heading to the mountain tomorrow as well and she offered to drive us the thirty minutes, which saved me from hitching in the rain!  On the first day, the weather was very cloudy and windy, so we never actually saw the mountain and were literally getting blown off the track.  We got to the hut we intended to stay at around 1pm, but the next hut was only 2 hours further, so after eating lunch, we decided to just go to the next one.  There, we met Eric, a German, who was doing a different track, but would end up in the same hut as me two nights later.  At night, the clouds cleared and it turned out to be quite starry and I even saw a shooting star--can't tell you the wish though.  The following day, we had only a 4 hours walk to do, so did a side trip to waterfall, then were on our way around 10am.  Just before noon the weather got really
Fantham Peak (left) and Mt Egmont (right)
ugly, turning in to hail, high winds, and walking through snow in parts.  I am not sure that you can be properly clothed for hail and if you can, I wasn't. Uli and I were both happy when we got to the hut in under 3.5 hours, but by now our feet and boots were soaked.  There was a French couple who had spent the last night in the hut as well, but didn't feel like walking in the hail, so they were staying this night again.  We lit the fire and got dry, then began playing dice games when an Irish couple came in too.  The 6 of us had a great, warm, dry night, sitting around the fire playing games and even saw a rainbow--I saw one on Great Barrier too.  Uli left the next morning and I carried on myself for a longer day--about 5.5 hours.  The weather finally got beautiful and I had amazing views of the mountain, but still had a bit of snow in parts and it actually felt like a November walk in the Colorado (on one of the warmer days).  My boots were still soaked, though, and I was very happy to get them dry.  The views from the hut were amazing of both Fantham's Peak and Mt Egmont.  Not long after, Eric showed up and
Mt Egmont
we chatted for a while then were sound asleep.  It was another shorter day in the morning, but Eric and I walked out and he was staying at a lodge by the visitor centre, while I walked another hour to a hut for free.  For the first time, I had the hut alone and there was no fire wood, but it had gotten warm, so it wasn't a big deal.  This was the first time in the whole trip that I had walked with in a t-shirt with no rain coat on!  After an uneventful night, I got to the trailhead around 9am and slowly hitched my way back to town--it took about 3 hours to get a ride!

Hot Springs on Great Barrier
I spent a few more days in town, and met up with Eric a few times.  The town had a really nice 6 mile, ocean front walkway, along with some rock climbing, and views back to the mountain, as well as an amazing city park.  My next plan was to meet my friend Andy and do a 4 day canoe trip, but the weather looked awful, so I decided to just go to Wellington, where he lives, for a couple days and Eric came along too.  Eric was the first person I really travelled with and could've seen myself travelling longer with and hopefully we will meet up again!  I explored more of the city, going to museums when it rained, and walking around a wildlife sanctuary for a day.  Wellington is the capital building and they had Parliament debates open to the public, so I sat in on one of those, which was quite the experience.  First of all, I just walked through a metal detector thengot in to the house full of Members of Parliament (our equivalent of the House of Rep) and even sat within 50 metres of the prime minister!  All they do is scream is at each other, so that kept Eric and I entertained.  Andy's lived in Washington D.C. for 4 years as his dad worked in the NZ Embassy, but they hadn't
Dinner from Great Barrier!
celebrated Thanksgiving for ages, so his mom was happy to make a mini-Thanksgiving Dinner for me.  Turkeys here are $50 for the smallest, so we had a chicken roast, sweet potatoes, and pumpkin pie--I didn't complain!  Finally, it was time to head back north, so I caught a sleeper bus, which was an experience.  It was a 10-hour trip leaving Wellington at 10pm and arriving in Auckland at 8am.  While the bus was nice, I didn't get a ton of sleep--it turns out buses stop, accelerate, and turn much more than airplanes, which is not conducive to sleeping.  At 11pm, they did serve cookies and ice cream as a snack and at 6am, we got breakfast--cookies and ice cream (an interesting breakfast).  Anyway, I got to Auckland on time, and hitched surprisingly easily back to Paihia and start work tomorrow!  I will be here now for the rest of the summer (until the end of February), with the exception of my friend Brynn's visit in mid-January.  It was great to Skype some of you on Thanksgiving, miss you and love you all!
Kaitoke Beach, Great Barrier Island

Wednesday, October 22, 2014

Southland

Getting ready to dive
Colac Bay
Well, I should've known I'd find something to do in Southland.  After spending the first night at Cherie's house, we decided to do touristy things.  We went to Bluff, which is the "furthest South point in New Zealand."  It's not actually the furthest south, but the southernmost point is owned by Maori and supposedly not as impressive.  So, we went down there, checked out the signpost, could see out to Stewart Island and went to the Maritime Museum, which was more interesting than I expected.  The next day the weather was bad, so we went ice skating at New Zealand's pathetic excuse of an ice rink.  The following day, we went to gemstone beach, which is supposedly known for having valuable gems, but since we didn't know what to look for we just found cool rocks.  Then, we went to a really pretty beach in Colac Bay and I went free diving, hoping to find Paua.  While I never actually found a paua, I did find huge mussels that we took back and cooked up!  Now I am back in the Bay of Islands and will work this weekend, then travel the North Island (plans still unknown).
a long way from home!

Tuesday, October 14, 2014

More fun outside

Lake Wanaka (love this town)
Well, I can’t stay out of the mountains too long apparently.  The house I was CouchSurfing at in Wanaka had a spare mountain bike that they lend to their surfers, so I took that out for a day and just rode some easy trails around the lake.  Now that’s a fun sport that I could really get into (and hurt doing).  After an extremely easy hitch from Wanaka to Queenstown, I got to my hostel, which upgraded me from a 12 bed dorm with no bathroom, to a 6 bed room with an ensuite—always a good surprise!  I’ve met a few people, all of whom tell me about more places I “need” to visit and should work in for a while.  So much to see in this world!  Anyway, yesterday the weather in Queenstown was mediocre at best, so I just walked around town, browsed the outdoors stores at all the toys I want, but don’t need (I’ll spare you the ripped boots rant).  However, I did walk around barefoot (as Kiwis do) and sliced a chunk off my toe—my fourth big cut since I’ve been here.  Life ain’t all sunshine and rainbows (but mostly).  Last night I decided to test my luck at the casino, which is a long way from Vegas, but I did end up doubling my $20!! That covered my $13 burger, which was worth $13, but even better free!  Anyway, the forecast was iffy for today, but when I woke up, the clouds seemed to be clearing, so I, of course, headed for the mountains.  
The mountain I climbed on right, Lake on left/centre
Ben Lomond Peak
I climbed Ben Lomond Peak, which they say is a 6-8 hour hike, but it took me just under 6 with several stops.  The views from the top were amazing as you could see over Lake Wakatipu off one side and over to Mt Aspiring National Park and the snow-covered peaks on the other side!  While I was alone on the trail, there were 3 others at the summit and it turns out 2 of them are staying at my hostel—more friends!  I also saw mountain goats, or tar as they call them here, which was the first time I’d seen any real wildlife in New Zealand other than birds!  Then I met a couple from Vancouver whose nephew was drafted  in the NHL’s first round draft this year, played the preseason with the Ducks before getting injured and is rated the 50th best prospect in the world—I suck.  Otherwise, it turned out to be an amazing day!  I’m hitching over to Gore tomorrow where one of my friends from Otago lives and will spend the weekend at her house/farm, then back to Dunedin, which probably won’t be super noteworthy, so I’m not sure when the next post will be.  Love ya and miss ya!  

Saturday, October 11, 2014

Hiking, hiking, hiking

View from Siberia Hut
Well the blog is back.  Sorry I've been out of touch, but I've hiked 7 of the last 10 days! As you know, I accepted a job working in Paihia, in the Bay of Islands are of the North Island for a jet ski tour company.  Since that doesn't start until the end of this month (kinda), I decided to come to the South Island for a month to get some mountain time!  After a few days in Dunedin to catch up with my friends from last time, I hitchhiked to Makarora, which went surprisingly well.  It's normally a 4:15 trip and I made it in 5 hours, never waiting more than 30 minutes for a ride!  Anyway, I was staying with a guy and his granddaughter out there in a beautiful, but remote area, basically as a base for some hiking.  So, let's get into hiking.

Wilkin River Valley
I had planned to do the Gillespie Pass Circuit, but wasn't sure what the weather would be like, so had flexible plans.  The track starts off crossing a waist-deep river, so I had wet feet for the next 5 hours, which is always enjoyable.  There were a bit of snow flurries, but otherwise an easy walk in a big river valley (the Wilkin River).  I expected to have the hut alone, but I saw there was smoke coming out of the chimney, which meant someone was there and already had it heated for me!  It was just the two of us though--Tom from Christchurch and myself.  The next morning, we woke up around 9 and the water pipe for the hut had frozen over and all the grass and even the creek were frozen, which meant the pass would surely be icy.


Ice in the morning
We had decided that we would go to a lake nearby for the day, then back to the hut for the night.  Around 11 we got to where the track split for the pass or the lake, but by now it was sunny and things were melting.  Tom decided to go to the lake, but I decided to go at least part way up the pass, then turn back.  I got to just above treeline, but should have gone further--I'm still getting comfortable being out alone.  Anyway, we both got back, had some good laughs, then walked out early the following morning before the rain storm made the river impassable.
Me on Liverpool Hut's Deck

Tom was headed on a road trip up the West Coast and had some cool tracks in mind, so I ended up joining him for one more walk.  We had intended to go to a hut situated just in from the Tasman Sea, but didn't feel like crossing rivers and worrying about flooding, so picked another one.  The sign said 2 hours to the hut, but it barely took us an hour!  It was a cool little hut built in 1905 when people were herding cattle across the country.  Not the most impressive track though, and then I hitched a ride back to Makarora.
Liverpool Hut

Thursday I got to Wanaka, one of my favourite towns in the world, and was stoked for a good weather forecast.  I decided Friday I would go to the Liverpool Hut, which I planned to go to last year, but got nixed due to weather.  Anyway, Friday morning was beautiful, so off I went.  Unfortunately, I didn't go far too quickly because it took me forever to get a ride from town to the trail head.  I did eventually make it and had to go 5 hours up to the hut and by this point, clouds had moved in.  The first 14km or so are very easy walking up a valley, but the last 1km was basically like walking up a ladder of rocks and roots for an hour and a half!  Finally, I made it up above treeline and got to the hut to find one other person there too--an American of course.  I also saw 4 kea, the world's only mountain parrot, and am continually impressed by them.  After getting a surprisingly warm night's sleep, the sun was out in the morning showing the amazing views and peaks from the hut--not a bad way to wake up!  There is a magazine in the hut with a panorama picture of the hut--it's pretty cool to be sitting in a magazine!  Going down the mountain was just as obnoxious as climbing up, but I got to the trailhead by 1:30.  There is another trail that goes up to a glacier lookout, so I decided to do that too and saw two impressive avalanches (they're awesome as long as they aren't near you).  The sign says 3 hours round trip, but I did it in 2, then met a guy headed back to town, so I got a ride back really easily!  I think I may be done tramping for a bit as the weather is supposed to worsen now.  I'm off to Queenstown on Tuesday for only a couple nights, then to a friend's farm in Gore for the weekend before I go back north for work.
Rob Roy Glacier

I've learned a few things so far, such as:

  • every pair of socks I own seem to be torn
  • my boots are tearing already
  • there are more hikes here than I even realised (and I realised there were lots)
  • I need to buy a camp stove because I'm tired of cold meals
  • I actually enjoy reading, but need a book
Love you all, miss you all, and talk to you soon!