Back In The Mountains

Gertrude Saddle

This blog will be less controversial than the last, so for those of you who didn’t enjoy that one, hopefully this one is better!  Since coming off Stewart Island I have managed to stay busy!  I went and spent a night at an old friends whose in Invercargill and resupplied on food and what not before heading off to Te Anau.  I am still convinced Te Anau—the gateway to Milford Sound and Fiordland—is the most beautiful place on earth with endless hiking opportunities!

Somewhere on Greenstone-Caples

I also may have failed to mention that I bought a car here again—a 1997 Honda Orthia!  However, since I was going by myself and had all day, I decided to hitch down the Milford Road rather than drive (and pay for gas).  I had hoped to climb Gertrude Saddle, but due to the clouds was planning on settling for Lake Marian.  Luckily, a local drove me down the road and told me that it was meant to clear and Gertrude Saddle would have great views, so I ended up doing that instead!  I am so happy she gave me that advice because the saddle gave amazing views across the Gertrude Valley on one side and through several valleys all the way out to Milford Sound to the west!  The hike was more of a rock scramble, so really fun!  As if that wasn’t good enough, I also had three Kea (the world’s only alpine parrot and my favourite animal) fly overhead!  Needless to say, Gertrude Saddle was incredible, but, unfortunately, the size of my knee was pretty incredible too… The following day, since the clouds were much lower, I decided to hitch up again and hike to Lake Marian.  It’s only a three hour hike, but was rather steep and ended at an alpine lake, which was gorgeous.  I even had the lake to myself for about 15 minutes!  Slowly but surely I am discovering more and more of Fiordland, but it’s such an unbelievable and untouched place!

McKellar Saddle

Afterwards, I opted to do the 4-day Greenstone-Caples circuit.  It was a relatively easy hike, so I thought it’d be good for my knee and it’s just outside of Queenstown, where I had to pick up my parents.  While the walking was generally easy through wide river valleys, the scenery was still really pretty and the weather turned out to be much better than forecasted.  The huts were extremely fancy and the other hikers were quite different than I was used to from Stewart Island—many of them were very inexperienced.  The highlight of the trip was going across McKellar Saddle, a subalpine saddle, that links the Greenstone and Caples valleys and was full of awesome views.  Again, it was a nice, easy hike, but it made me realize three things.  First, my knee is not healed.  Second, it would be nice to have someone to hike with.  Lastly, I am starting to get a bit bored but flat walking and getting more and more interested in vertical climbing.  Maybe that will be my next endeavor!

From McKellar Saddle

Anyway, my parents are now up somewhere high above the Pacific and I cannot wait for them to land and start our trip!  It will be very busy, but also full of amazing places and much-needed time together. After they leave, I will almost immediately start a one-week stint as a volunteer hut warden for the Dept. Of Conservation meaning I will be living in and looking after a hut on an alpine lake for a week!  From there, I have no plan really except to hike as much until the snow stops me!  However, I still am not sure what I am doing in/after May, so that’s the next mission—to figure that out!  

9 Days in the Wilderness

This blog will be slightly controversial as it is unedited.  If you’re young, innocent, or my mother (I know you’re young and innocent too Ma), then be warned, but I thought it was only fair to give you the unedited version of my thoughts from 9 days on the trail.  This is a mix of my thoughts, things to remember for future hikes, and advice for anyone else who may do this hike. If you're interested here is the link for the walk NW Circuit on Stewart Island

Day 1: Oban to Bungaree Hut (5.5 hours)-Watched sunrise, disappointing.  Barely slept because I was so excited  I was wondering if I’d meet others.  Would I enjoy the alone time?  Would I get sick of my own thoughts?  Lots of people at Maori Beach and 2 boats at Port Williams, wanting more remoteness, but this is part of a Great Walk.  The beaches are incredible and have blue, sunny sky!  After Port Williams, no more people until hut.  Had 1^st muddy section.  9 hunters and 4 other hikers at hut—too many!  My rice was plain and boring—I forgot about using powdered soup as seasoning!  2 infected cuts already… Still really excited for the next ? days.  Beautiful hut on beach with seal playing. Quick swim, but no fish or paua.  Harder than expected—need “tramping legs” back.  Beautiful stars/moon.  Delicious scallops, cod, and venison from hunters but still don’t like them—not remote!

Day 2: Bungaree Hut to Christmas Village (5 hours)- Sore in morning.  Hike was hilly, but legs feel better!  Tried finding paua at Murray Beach, but no luck.  Found 1 at Christmas Village!!! High tide and strong wakes tho—lost the first one.  Popped its organs, but cleaned it and tasted delicious! Walked all day alone and loved it.  2 hikers, no hunters at hut.  One hiker told me I need to wash my socks—ha! Was gunna climb Mt Anglem in afternoon, but got paua instead.  Great weather again.  Hut book talks bout great fishing, deer, penguins, whales, and kiwi, but haven’t seen any yet.  Starting to chafe, which sucks.  Haven’t finished skittles yet—I have some control!  Not excited for rice tomorrow—need paua.  Got a big mussel today too.  Meant to rain tomorrow, but loving it so far. May spend 10 days here—why not.

Day 3: Christmas Village to Yankee River (5.5 hours)- Slept in a bit, decided to skip Anglem. Saw a white tail this morning out window.  Weird German hiker left! On and off rain/blue sky.  Was supposed to be 4 hours, not sure why I took so damn long.  Swam in morning, but it was cold as balls and the swell was a b***h.  Free balled today and had no chafing.  Took limpets for protein.  Lucky Beach looked mean for paua, but wasn’t keen to swim.  Everyone in the book sees kiwi, but I haven’t even heard a damn one.  Actually loving walking alone—so much to think about, but nothing really to worry about.  Hunters at hut, but a bit more rugged and they gave me sauce for my boring rice.  I like the Swiss guy Antoine who will probably be at every hut with me.  He played on the Swiss national hockey team with David Aebischer and Mark Streit!  Shoulda swam at this hut for paua, but its real cold.  My new book is s**t so far—I remember why I took a 5 year break from reading.  Anyway, easy day tomorrow, then a few long ones.  Miss everyone at home, but enjoying this!  Got delicious chicken and finally did see a kiwi!  Now I gotta photograph one.  One of today’s thoughts—why does a toothbrush only last me 1 month? Great stars again! New socks tomorrow!! Tides working against me now.

Day 4: Yankee River to Long Harry (4.5 hours)- Hated the morning.  Think it was more mental, but Smoky Beach was bloody beautiful!! Swell is still making paua collecting s**t.  After the beach, loved the walk.  Cold as this morning, but turned out hut and sunny!  Just me and Antoine here with amazing views.  Even the hunters at Yankee River said something smelled awful in hut (it was my socks…).  My crackers went leathery, so lunch will be gross now.  Trying a big sea snail with dinner.  Swam every day so far.  Will finish in 9 days.  Infected cuts are healed and chafing stopped! The Skittles are barely hanging in.  The snail was awful, but rice was loaded with tomato sauce and spice, so it was bearable!  Didn’t fall on ass today!  Could stay at this hut longer, but may as well keep going.  Favourite hut!  No kiwi, but 3 f****n possum, 2 chased me! Boots holding up well and dry!  Wish I could get a pic of these stars. 

Day 5: Long Harry to East Ruggedy (4.5 hours)- Great hike! Saw kiwi on trail!! Over halfway done.  Mad for using cell phone last night—is anywhere really remote?!? Couscous for dinner.  Thank god not rice.  Lookout was amazing! Not doing rest day because I feel I have good momentum now.  Realised it’s good I’m a guy cuz I piss a lot on trail.  Tomorrow is meant to be hardest day, but bring it on! Tired of some of the same thoughts over and over…what to do for work, where to travel next, blah, blah.  Kills tie, but all this s**t will work out eventually, just need to stop working about it.  Hopefully new thoughts tomorrow.  Swam again, but no paua.  Maybe they’re picked out or I’m not going deep enough. Skittles population is quickly dwindling.  New clothes tomorrow!! So far weather has been on point.  Raining now, but f it passes over night I’d be happy.  Book is better! Skinks everywhere.

Day 6: East Ruggedy to Big Hellfire (6 hours)- 2 beautiful beaches today!  Rained overnight, clear today.  This track is more mentally tiring than physically.  Hut not on beach, no swim.  Ate Skittles on way and finished em.  A bit sore, a few cuts.  Really hungry today, listened iPod, made me miss CSU and all the friends and great memories.  Cold as tonight, but clear starry skies.  Contemplating what hikes to do…never enough time.  My feet/boots/socks reek.  Muddier today.  Sand at 200m---weird.  Meant to be lots of kiwis tomorrow.  Lost all track of days, love it. 

Day 7: Big Hellfire to Mason Bay (6 hours)- Cold ass southerly off Antarctica, but showers this morning cleared to sun/cloud.  Island gets 275 days/year rain, doing pretty damn well now! Spent a lot of time on my ass today, but good section of track.  Hut will be nearly full—20 people!! I’ve only seen 3 others since Yankee River! No swim again, but not happy about full hut.  People complaining about how hard their 3 hour walk is and how muddy, but they’re clean…ugh! Cheese went green, guess I shouldn’t have cut it beforehand, so lunches will be s**t now  Crazy how fast 1 week went, legs feel good, body feels good, mentally good.  Loving just being outside walking in the sun.  Some people even in by plane!! Lazy bastards. Really good kiwi sighting and rainbow! Got a kiwi video. Do NOT like all these people. Antoine and I will camp tomorrow to avoid em! Right knee sore..

Day 8: Mason Bay to North Arm Campsite (8 hours)- Went further to avoid the obnoxious old people.  Didn’t sleep well due to excruciating knee pain and them getting up at 6.  Mentally and physically tired.  Knee is okay with painkillers.  Long day in mud and bush—every hill pissed me off.  Used to think hiking poles were for old people..maybe I’m old… 1 year ago I was in Vegas.  I miss that a lot.  Jealous of everyone at CSU on spring break.  For the first time today, thought about going home. 

Day 9: North Arm to Mason Bay (2.5 hours)- This was supposed to be 5 hours but it’s on the Great Walk, so extra easy. My knee is huge, but it was great to get real food and beer!

I absolutely loved the experience, loved being away from everything and losing track of time!  My knee is huge unfortunately and I have a few cuts on my feet, but otherwise I loved this hike!

On the Road Again

Well, the time has come to leave Paihia.  While I am sad to leave my friends here and the stable lifestyle, I am ready to be in the South Island again!

I had always wanted to live on the beach, which was strange because I'm not a "beach person" but the ocean is amazing.  And I have absolutely loved it.  I had the best job, met the best friends, and just couldn't imagine a better way to have spent my summer.

Since I talked to you last, a few things have happened.  I sailed overnight to one of the islands with some friends and had an incredible time.  We trolled a lure behind us and, admittedly forgot about it, before we caught my first (and only) kingfish, or yellow-tail amberjack as it's called in America.  Having that on the barbecue on the beach was amazing!  After joining the yacht club here, we had access to the boats so on several occasions, I'd go with some friends just out for an afternoon sail, which was tons of fun!  A group of us went back again to hike around and camp on Urupukapuka Island and loved it.

Last week, I finally made it out diving!  Unfortunately, it was too deep to take my camera, but we first dove on an incredible 140' ex-Navy ship wreck.  This was my deepest dive and 1 step closer towards my advanced diving certification.  The second dive was on a reef where we swam into a cave and I got to be "guided" by my friend who works at the dive shop, which always makes it more fun.  That was the second of 5 steps towards my advanced!

I was offered a free skydive, but unfortunately didn't have a chance to use it.  Yesterday, though, I went with the boss and their family out to the islands and once again had an incredible time.  We went to Stingray Bay, which was my favourite place in the Bay of Islands.  Then I got offered a free parasail, so I did that, which gave beautiful views across the Bay.  The past 3.5 months here have been absolutely incredible, but left me even more split than ever between oceans and mountains!

Despite having loved my time in Paihia, I am ready to go.  Customer service takes a toll on you.  Between working with people all day on the jetskis then dealing with more people at the campground, I am need a break from it.  While most have been great, there are plenty who also do your head in.  My plan from here is to go spend a week in Dunedin visiting old friends and hopefully buying a car, then going to Stewart Island for 2 weeks and doing a 10-day hike!  That'd be my longest ever hike and is meant to be both beautiful and remote.  After that, I will kill a week in Fiordland then pick up my parents which I am really looking forward to!

I do miss you all, and actually do miss winter a bit, but the last week of 80 degree sunny days, make it easier.  Once I am on the road, the blog posts will become more frequent. Stay warm and love you all! Bye!